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It's actually a machloket haposkim (argument among the decisors), with the point of contention exactly that raised in the question. From the CRC: Some (Chayei Adam 51:17 & Nishmas Adam 152:1, Yechaveh Da’as 6:12, and Machzeh Eliyahu 25-29) hold that the bracha is shehakol because the wording of the bracha “Boruch…who creates the fruit of the earth” ...


The Star-K cites an argument about this between Rs Tzvi Pesach Frank and Yechiel Michel Tukachinsky. For extensive discussion, see Derekh Emunah (Terumot 2:1 Beiur Halacha sv Ochel).

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